From Vine Farmer:
Vine Farmer is proud to have introduced the wines of Giuseppe Mongelli and his Gimonda farm to the USA. Giuseppe's wines have a cult following locally and in certain EU markets and are a reminder of the meaningful quality and character coming from of the "other" Tuscany. The Tuscany where farmers know each of their vines and have dirt under their fingernails, where the wines are fine and thrilling in a uniquely Tuscan way. Wines like Giuseppe's get sopped up quicker each year by the growing chorus of people who are curious to experience something more meaningful and who have become disillusioned by the grand shows put on by revered Tuscan estates, where one gets the feel that its more about the brand and less about the wine.
The Wine - The Viceré vineyard is shallower and more arid than the Buscheto vineyard. It also receives more hours of sunlight and has more direct cooling air from the ocean. These factors combine to create a wine of greater depth, potency and broadness than Buscheto. In contrast to more modern expressions of Sangiovese that flaunt rich fruit and a fatter structure, Viceré never loses poise or classicism, even in warmer vintages. The finest vintages have slightly exotic floral aromas and fruit that develops an edge of lead and iron with age - somewhat evoking left bank Bordeaux. Viceré is one of those wines that has something in its character that can only be achieved when the right grape is married to the right land. Call it a natural beauty and melding together of components that just "is" and is never forced. While frequently exciting young, it is more of a textural experience for the palate at that time, with a solid and chiseled structure.
Giuseppe uniquely releases each vintage as it starts to enter a window of enjoyment for some palates. This release plan can range from 5-12 year post vintage. With every bottle, one can be sure that it was released with the full "seal of approval" from Giuseppe and not released simply due to commercial pressures. In short, Viceré is a wine made by a true artist and fit for the darkest corner of the cellar. It will truly pay dividends to those willing to wait.
April 2020 Check In - Giuseppe's favorite vintage of his wine. This has the broad-brush stroke and deep feel of the 2012, but with nice floral aromatics framing fragrant plum fruit that I don't notice frequently in Sangiovese (especially Chianti). Enjoying this wine, Giuseppe exclaimed that the easiest vintages are floral, and the most difficult vintages are fruit. It's interesting to think about the overlap of easy and hard vintages with great and poor vintages (they are not one in the same). Despite enjoying this wine a lot, my favorite vintage remains 2010. For those looking for the emergence of secondary fruit and other aromas.