From Vine Farmer:
Chiara Ciavolich’s land holdings are in the heart of Abruzzo, benefiting from extreme diurnal temperature changes and fewer clouds due to nearby mountain ranges. Chiara is known in the EU for crafting sleek, refined expressions of Montepulciano, Pecorino, and Trebbiano that far transcend the bulk wine reputation of the region. There is a contemporary elegance to her classically proportioned wines, as there is to her - entirely Italian, entirely Abruzzo.
In the early 2000's, Chiara was compelled to better understand the wines of her ancestors who migrated to the area in the 1500's - she even has an incredible cellar dating back to that time with a storied local history of being occupied by the SS during the Second World War. Of this desire, the crown jewels of her farm were born - the rare and singular "Fosso Cancelli" wines. The Fosso Cancelli bottles are made from the finest plots (generally old vines), crushed in a wooden basket press, fermented with native yeasts in old oak and/or amphora without temperature control and bottled entirely by hand. These moving and very fine wines are a culmination of her mission and passion, embodying everything that Vine Farmer humbly champions.
The Wine - The grapes for the Fosso Cancelli Trebbiano come from the first and most ancient vineyard on the farm - a gently sloped South facing vineyard with Tendone Pergole vines planted in the 1960s. The soil composition is primarily loam and clay. Native fermentation via the pied-de-cuve method is carried out in old, non-toasted, 15 hl Slavonian oak barrels. Following spontaneous malolactic fermentation, the wine is racked into other barrels of the same type and aged on the fine lees for 3 years. Although the wine undergoes an aging regimen that most red wines don't see, the resulting wine is fresh, vibrant and soars from the glass. The incredible raw materials clearly need the time and slow exposure to oxygen to balance out and develop the great poise that this wine is known for. The palate is long, layered, and expansive, but the wine itself floats in the mouth and never feels heavy despite being a wine that we routinely show after red wines. A wine of classic proportions and production, yet with contemporary class and style.
February 2020 Check In - Its hard to believe that this wine was aged for 3 years in old oak barrels, after fermentation in the same barrels. The quality of the grapes was so expertly married to the production regimen that the only perception that oak was even used is the fact that the wine has a grand expansiveness to its nature. The aromas and palate remain fresh, lively and vibrant. I'm particularly struck by the creamy, mango note (per the 2015 vintage) that exists seamlessly and paradoxically amid more restrained aromas such as citrus and apple. The combination is thrilling; there's just so much to find in this unique and rare wine. It will hold well for years but really should be enjoyed in its current state too. Enjoy this over the course of an evening as the wine evolves and reveals nuance and new facets over time.