From Vine Farmer:
The dedication and talent of the Anfosso family has underpinned a recent rediscovery of the Rossesse di Dolceacqua appellation. The modern trend in Dolceacqua is to create fresh, easy wines that can feel anonymous at times. However, the appellation and Rossese variety are historically significant and noble - many have written about the parallels of Dolceacqua to Burgundy and Côte-Rôtie.
Seeing the steep, terraced vineyards and understanding the nobility of the land, its clear why the Anfosso family is steadfast in their commitment to historical techniques such as whole cluster and native yeast fermentation that they believe best highlight the land's true nature and potential. The resulting Rossese wines have the lifted transparency and zen-like harmony of fine Burgundy with a true Dolceacqua signature of black pepper and a briary earthiness. The character of each vintage is also front and center in each bottle, showing beauty in several different forms and engaging the drinker.
The Wine - Whole bunch inclusion and a focus on grapes with balanced components yield wine of unusual symmetry and harmony for its humble price point and aging regimen. Grape selection comes from 30 year old vines from the steeply terraced Fulavin and Poggio Pini vineyards, considered the family's "younger" vines. Remarkable raw materials, indeed. Spontaneous fermentation and aging are all in stainless steel to enhance terroir expression. The wine is fermented with 30% to 50% whole bunch inclusion, depending on the vintage.
Savory spice and stony red fruit are typical aromatic signatures, with the core of red fruit becoming more prominent and radiant with time in the glass. This wine is typically transparent in feel and acid driven in structure, with excellent integration due to natural farming. Balance is the reason that this wine can age gracefully while having an elegant and relatively understated structure. This is always an elegant expression, although in the best vintages it has a particularly gossamer feel. Decanting is not always needed, however, a single decant for 5-10 minutes is recommended as this wine almost always evolves significantly with air.
March 2020 Check In - A slightly darker and more understated, shy expression due to the warmer growing season (in the context of a grape and region known for mid weight and acid driven elegance). A 10-15 minute decant did wonders to coax the red fruit from the wine. In fact, I would say a decant is required for this wine, it changed so much. This wine really started singing after a few minutes and didn't decline over the course of a few days. I loved the briary and musky edge to the whole bunch inclusion as it gently framed the wine when the fruit really started to soar. This is a bit of a geek wine.